移民與食物：二次戰後高雄地區的潮汕移民與沙茶牛肉爐

Abstract

本文探討二次戰後由中國傳入臺灣的沙茶飲食文化。今日廣為人知的「沙茶醬」調味料源自於東南亞，早年前往南洋工作的潮汕移民將當地的「沙嗲」飲食文化帶回家鄉潮汕並改良為「沙茶」。二次戰後潮汕移民跟隨國民黨撤退來臺，大批潮汕人落腳於臨近高雄港的南鼓山區（哈瑪星）和鹽埕區，並將潮汕地區的沙茶飲食文化傳入高雄。當時鹽埕區商業蓬勃發展，吸引大批人潮湧進當地工作，潮汕人開設沙茶醬製造廠並經營多家飲食店，將沙茶的飲食文化（例如沙茶牛肉爐）介紹給前來高雄工作的消費者。透過史料與口述訪談，本文探討二次戰後潮汕移民如何將沙茶飲食文化傳入高雄，並使「沙茶牛肉爐」成為特殊的區域性飲食文化。

This paper explores the culinary culture of “sha-cha sauce,” (沙茶醬) which made its way from Mainland China to Taiwan after World War Two. The well-known sha-cha sauce actually originated in Southeast Asia, where immigrant workers from the Chaozhou and Shantou areas (in Guangdong Province) brought the culture of satay (沙嗲) back to China and transformed satay into sha-cha. Sha-cha soon became popular in southern China. Shortly after World War Two, many Chaozhou–Shantou people migrated to Taiwan’s port city of Kaohsiung as part of the Chinese Nationalist Party’s exodus from Mainland China. Many of these Kaohsiung-bound migrants settled down in Southern Gushan (Hamashin) and Yenchen Districts. They introduced sha-cha sauce to Kaohsiung both by establishing a factory to produce the sauce and by serving sha-cha cuisine (e.g., sha-cha beef hot pot) at local restaurants to outside customers who would come to Kaohsiung’s Yenchen District in pursuit of commercial opportunities. Through primary sources and oral interviews, this paper examines how the Chaozhou–Shantou migration introduced sha-cha cuisine to—and then promoted it in—the greater Kaohsiung area from 1950 to the present.