深層衝浪遊戲-烏石港衝浪的民族誌

Abstract

以衝浪板為媒介，將人與大自然的力量-海浪，作完美結合的衝浪運動，已由前現代文化發展為全球性的運動及次文化。本研究以近年興盛於北臺灣的衝浪運動為探究對象，設定宜蘭烏石港為研究場域，選擇以Clifford Geertz的深層描述作為研究方法，輔以民族誌的田野調查與探究，深入研究場域進行資料的蒐集，資料來源除了自己從事衝浪的生命經驗外，深入衝浪社群，從衝浪者們對談中所獲取的訊息亦是重要來源。另外，以置身於在地脈絡中詮釋衝浪文化，理解衝浪社群的生活型態、行為、語言、關心的事務，感受身為衝浪者的氛圍，融入衝浪社群之文化、意識與脈絡，窺究衝浪文化與衝浪社群的互動模式。 行文分別從衝浪中的身體感知、烏石港沙灘文化、衝浪者互動交織出的權力與意義之網…等面向，藉以詮釋衝浪運動的地方知識為何?進而釐清烏石港衝浪文化的特殊之處。 從事衝浪活動是從陸地上的身體過渡到水中的身體的歷程，當陸地上的身體與海水接觸後習得的初步適應海水形成身體的改變，區別出菜鳥衝浪客與高手衝浪客從事衝浪時身體型態、對氣壓的敏感、對浪的觀察及裂流判讀的差異所在。 其次，衝浪世界中存在許多獨特的內涵，如外界所熟知的衝浪、陽光與健康、悠閒與和平、成就與滿足…等，但，沉浸於衝浪運動脈絡中之後，便會發現光譜的另一端實存著與之拉扯的元素，浪衝、享樂與惡質、競爭、歪暴與挫敗…等二元對話的辯證，此張力除了影響衝浪者繼續從事這項運動的意願，更形構了衝浪運動的特殊景觀。 最後，商業進駐沙灘，使得沙灘上的權力結構產生了互嵌與爭奪的關係。原本看似單純、個人的衝浪活動，分別可從浪頭、攤位、下浪權、比賽的結果…等，解析出商家不著痕跡的將自身的權力鑲嵌其中，以壯大自己的社會網絡。This dissertation is using the method of thick description. The Wu-Shi Harbor is to set for research field. The author, as a participant observer, was an engrossing researcher who spent much time and efforts to establish rapport with a new “community” and learn how to act in that community so that the ethnographer is eventually accepted as part of the social landscape. This study presents a part of the Northern Taiwan surfing culture that the author is currently involved in participant-observation ethnography. In surfing field, the core of surfing culture is the simultaneous pursuit of practical wave riding experience and competence. Thus, surfing practice inscribes the body with experience. These inscriptions also form the practical basis of construction of identity by providing meaning and value through the surfing body. This perspective was available by sociologist Pierre Bourdieu’s concept of cultural capital. Then, as we know, surfers’ bodies are aquatic bodies, they must swim and dive well, and use oxygen efficiently when underwater. Their bodies must be creative performing bodies that continually assemble dance-like patterns of movement across a wave. Above all, surfing bodies communicate a plethora of cultural values, ideas and meanings about decency, hedonism and physical capital. Physical capital, as Bourdieu explains, is expert at combination of skill, muscular strength endurance, cunning and courage. Besides, he analyses bodies as bearers of power, status and distinctive symbolic value. These constitute what he calls physical capital. This part adopts the idea of physical capital as the main axis to interpret the hidden meaning under these inscriptions of surfing bodies. This is the case on the Northern Taiwan beach where physical capital is the principal currency of surfers.