作物、食物到禮物:臺灣鳳梨社會生命的轉換辯證

Abstract

臺灣和鳳梨的產業互動關係最早可追溯自日治時期，罐頭產品成為運輸熱帶水果的最佳方式，臺灣更在1971年創下外銷鳳梨罐頭世界第一，也使得鳳梨的製罐發展達到高峰。之後由於不敵國際市場競爭，鳳梨產業發展製罐陷入低潮，使得地方被迫轉型與再發展。國家推動鳳梨產業進行品種改良，農民的鳳梨栽培模式與鮮果品質治理發生變化，逐漸由生產者導向移轉至消費者導向，並在主流產銷體系之外形成小農自銷、私人組織共銷與消費者導向式電子商務三種另類農糧食物網絡。 另一方面，隨著政治經濟氛圍的轉變，在後現代消費文化與全球文化經濟的帶動下，鳳梨的符號意義從做為感謝、慶賀、表現心意的吉祥意象逐漸演變成具備臺灣意涵與在地「土」象徵，記錄了不同時代社會文化需求。不同時期的鳳梨商品演變，展現出歷史發展中鳳梨不同的意涵，流變轉換成不同的消費符碼的現象，同時也說明市場偏好與消費者意識如何影響農產商品產銷治理。 本研究透過探究鳳梨產業史、另類農糧食物網絡、商品品質治理過程的變化歸納出鳳梨的社會生命有三期，不同時期的政治經濟作用力影響下，傳統的鳳梨產銷模式發生變動，商品角色不斷發生變化，商品價值提升，因而生產出符號意義與發生物性變化。藉由探究臺灣鳳梨社會生命的案例，本研究發現臺灣水果農業現代化的轉變歷程中，水果價值會透過不同產銷網絡中的品質治理獲得提升。

The development of the pineapple industry in Taiwan could be dated to the Japanese colonial period. Canned products had once become the best way to transport tropical fruit. In 1971, Taiwan became the biggest canned pineapple exporter in the world. However, Taiwan’s canned pineapple export faced serious global competition. Since then, the pineapple industry has transformed the business from canned pineapple to fresh pineapple and developed new production and marketing relationship. The mode of production changed from production oriented to consumption oriented and formed three Alternative Agro-food Networks: self-produce and marketing, private collective marketing and consumer- oriented E-commerce. On the other hand, the cultural meaning of pineapple also underwent similar transformation. Since Three Direct Links Across the Taiwan Straits in 2008, the cultural meaning of pineapple has changed from blessing, celebration, and prosperity to the symbol of Taiwanese value and culture. A series of evolution of pineapple as a commodity and cultural icon reflects the transition of political regimes and consumer behavior. This transformation also emblematizes how market preference and conscious consumption shape the production and marketing of agricultural commodities. The study discusses the history of pineapple industrial revolution, Alternative Agro-food Network and the change of quality convention to conclude three periods of social life of pineapple. Influenced by different political and economic efforts, traditional production and marketing has changed that lead to commodities roles changed, value promoted, and sign value produced. By examining the case of pineapple, the study shows that during the fruit farming modernization process in Taiwan, the value of fruit will be revealed through different quality convention in distinct production and marketing network.