以圖像學分析高端時尚中的女性主義－以Dior 為例

Abstract

女性主義影響了許多產業發展，高端時尚即是其一，在服裝作品上可觀察出女性自由解放的演進脈絡，其中可發現高端時尚帶有反映當時社會風潮的功能，其從顯眼的外型輪廓演變到透過圖像色彩等細節講述文化意涵，而本研究將以Dior 2022早春度假系列中具有圖像的服裝進行文化意涵的探討及分析。 Dior深受女性主義的影響，根據脈絡觀察，其女性主義有三大特徵：女性「主我」的定位、重新定義「美」的標準、女性視角的加入，而運用女性視角闡述文化意涵為2016年上任的藝術總監－Maria Grazia Chiuri極為擅長的領域，而年度舉辦的度假系列不僅與各國傳統工藝合作，也深入執行文化研究，2022早春度假系列中的作品即重新詮釋希臘傳統文化及神話故事，此季作品除了服裝剪裁變化外，也將希臘象徵、神話人物的圖像置於服裝上，經由研究結果可發現Chiuri欲傳達的核心概念為女性擁有的「強大力量」，該形象有別於既定印象，同時也翻轉了強大的意義，鼓勵女性跳出外在常態的框架，肯定自我。

國內少有針對其創作的服裝作品進行文化探討，故本研究將以圖像學理論分析為主軸，並搭配文獻分析法、個案研究法及比較分析法與特定文化背景執行比對分析，可供日後文化研究者或是時尚產業創作者的創意發想及文化推廣之參考，研究結果同時也提供觀者文化意涵的角度深思之。Feminism and its movements caused a great impact on many industries, including Haute couture. We could find that clothes have got a close relationship with feminist revolution history, from silhouette innovation to inner cultural meaning, hence the research will concentrate on Dior 2022 Cruise series to explore further feminine implications.According to the development process of Dior, it expresses the core values by designing clothes which had connected deeply with four-waves feminism. There are three main feminine characteristics could be found in Dior’s fashion works: -self repositioned, beauty-standard redefined and female gaze added. As a new creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri is especially good at the region of applying female gaze in fashion brainstorming. Generally, Dior executes a cultural study intensely before publishing a new Cruise series, then cooperates with traditional workshops in local country. In 2022 Cruise series, Chiuri employs female gaze to represent ancient Greek culture, and she aims to tell ancient Greek mythology in feminine aspect. Chiuri not only adopts the traditional silhouette from Greek clothes, but also puts mythology character images on this series. Based on the result section, those images symbolize a powerful energy in female way, it does not merely mean a strong body or taking control on people, the definition of “power” could be different, Chiuri encourages females got more self-recognitions.Haute couture often gets a stereotype that indicates luxury and hierarchy, and there is few studies that focus on clothing by cultural respective in Taiwan. Therefore, Iconography, Comparative analysis, Document analysis and Case study will be used as tools in this research. The result could give researchers or designers which in fashion industry with a fresh viewpoint on creative development and cultural promotion.