台灣日治時期漢人飲食文化之變遷：以在地書寫為探討核心

Abstract

本論文的內容，主要呈現台灣日治時期漢人的飲食文化。1895年台灣脫離中國清朝，接受日本近五十年的殖民統治。隨著大批日本人來台，日人的風俗民情、生活習慣被引進台灣，日本飲食文化更是深深影響台灣人；然而，歷來有關台灣飲食文學書寫之研究，則多著重於戰後的書寫。所以，本文主要參考日治時期台灣文人書寫的回憶錄、自傳、小說，來了解當時台灣漢人的飲食文化。 首先，本文應用Sidney W. Mintz的飲食理論，來說明台灣漢人在日治時期內在飲食口味，受到外在環境影響的轉變，並分別由「總督府的飲食衛生政策」及「日本新式教育」兩個面向來討論。日人推動衛生工程建設、飲食衛生管理規則及市場環境衛生改善，使得台人在飲食衛生習慣上能更接近日人。另一方面，從公學校使用的國語教材、中學校的住宿生活以及新生代知識分子的留日經驗，皆可看到日本的飲食文化，透過新式教育的方式滲入台灣人的日常生活中。接著，本文藉由分析日治時期小說中使用的飲食題材，從多個面向來觀察社會不同階層的飲食文化，探討台灣日治時期漢人的飲食文化，並獲得以下結論。第一，文人雅士或富豪人家透過東洋式的飲食消費，展現自己的階級地位及品味；第二，農家和勞動階層的飲食主要以番薯、稀飯、醬菜為主，反映出大眾階層生活窮困的狀況；第三，進入戰時體制的台灣，因物資嚴重缺乏，食物採取配給制度，造成人民糧食不足。本論文以台灣在地文人之書寫，來討論當時台灣漢人的飲食文化，期望藉由本論文的撰寫，能讓台灣日治時期漢人的飲食文化面貌更臻完備。The purpose of this thesis is to present Taiwan Han dietary culture in the Japanese colonial period. In 1895, Taiwan broke away from Xing Dynasty and came to an era of Japanese occupation and colonization for around fifty years. Lots of representative cultural rituals of Japanese style were introduced into Taiwan especially in dietary culture that significantly influence Taiwanese way of living. Nevertheless, most researches and articles about Taiwan dietary culture were focused on time duration right before and after the end of East Asia War. Therefore, this thesis intends to find out Taiwan Han dietary culture in the Japanese colonial period by exploring memoir, autobiography and novel written by Taiwanese scholars at that time.

Firstly, this thesis applies Sidney W. Mintz’s dietary theory and studies on both Dietary Hygiene Policy of Taiwan General Governor Palace and Japanese New Style Education to illustrate transformation of Taiwanese dietary taste by outside circumstance during Japanese colonial period. In order to upgrade Taiwanese sanitation and health habits to be close to that of Japanese, developing sanitation engineering, implementing management regulations for dietary sanitation and improving environmental sanitation in traditional market were carried out by official governor.

After that, with reference to teaching material in the elementary school, dormitory life in junior high school and experience of studying abroad in Japan from new intellectuals, conclusion could be made that Japanese dietary culture have influenced Taiwanese daily life by New Style Education. Finally, this thesis explores dietary culture during Japanese colonial period by analyzing dietary novel at that time.

The results of analysis could be obtained in following conclusions: First, scholar and wealthy family used to represent their social class and personal value by spending on Japanese dietary habits. Second, the diet of farm and labor level mainly consisted of sweet potato, porridge and pickles that reflects a difficult living of life for general public. Third, distribution system for food was strictly implemented because of East Asia War that results in serious shortage of food for general needs. The investigated results could present a variety of dietary culture from different society level through novel analysis. Hopefully Taiwan Han dietary culture in the Japanese colonial period could be more comprehensive with this thesis study.