從文化符碼觀點探究日本漫畫「深夜食堂」之飲食文化與文化認同

Abstract

本研究旨在探討漫畫「深夜食堂」所呈現的日本飲食文化，並進一步分析讀者對其之認同情形。針對上述目的，本研究依據符號學及敘事分析之理論主張，探討該漫畫中6篇故事的符號如圖像及其文字說明，以及劇情之敘事結構。此外，透過半結構訪談法，本研究分析台灣8位讀者對此漫畫所呈現的日本飲食文化之認同情形，包括認知、態度、行為三面向。研究發現如下： （一）文本特質 1. 飲食符號與意涵：故事透過各種符號具，例如主題食物、餐具等圖像，以及食物名稱（如「豬排丼」）的諧音註解等文字，顯現特定的日本飲食文化。「冬至的南瓜」和「跨年蕎麥麵」此二故事即以標題文字點出日本飲食文化中傳統節慶的食物。 2. 劇情與敘事結構：6個故事均符合托鐸洛夫的敘事模式，主題食物是構成破壞與重回安定的元素。 （二）文化認同 1. 認知：受訪者們對文本的認知面向相當多元，包括食物的屬性（是否為道地日本料理、以及是否為私人重要日子或傳統節慶之用）以及各類的日本飲食符號。對於上述食物屬性的認知，曾至日本旅遊的受訪者較能理解；但所有受訪者們都能指出各種飲食符號，顯示文本能夠在認知層次引發不同背景讀者的多面向認同。 2. 態度：以溫馨有趣呈現飲食文化的文本特質，能夠獲得不同背景受訪者們的喜愛；與讀者個人經驗具有共通性的劇情，能夠引發讀者情緒的共鳴；未至日本旅遊者，則較易受到故事的呈現影響而形成對主題食物的喜好。 3. 行為：受訪者在觀看完「深夜食堂」之後，一致表示想要親身體驗品嘗文本裡出現過的食物，顯示相同的行為傾向。然而閱讀之後是否會進一步查閱多樣相關資訊、製作文本中的料理，受訪者之間則有所差異，反映了受訪者烹飪文化資本的不同。

The purpose of this study is to explore the Japanese dietetic culture presented by the comic “Shinya Shokudo”, and to analyze its readers’ cultural identity. Regarding the above purpose, this study explores the signs, including pictures and their textual descriptions, as well as the narrative structure of storylines presented by 6 stories in the comic, based on the theories and assertions of semiotics and narrative analysis. In addition, through semi-structural interviews, this study analyzes 8 Taiwanese readers’ identification, including cognition, attitude and behavior, with the Japanese dietetic culture presented by the comic. Research findings are: 1. Textual characteristics (1) The dietetic signs and their implications: The stories portray certain Japanese dietetic culture with various signifiers, including the pictures of themed food and tableware as well as the textual descriptions of the homophonic meaning of certain food’s names (i.e. “Katsu-don”). For instances, the two stories, “winter solstice pumpkin” and “New Year's Eve soba”, highlight the food served in traditional festivals in Japanese dietetic culture with the texts of the story titles. (2) Storylines and narrative structures: 6 stories all echo the narrative pattern established by T. Todorov. Each of the themed foods is the element for destruction and reconstruction of equilibrium. 2. Cultural identity (1) Cognition: Interviewees recognize the texts from diverse dimensions, including the traits of those themed foods (whether they are purely local, and whether they are used in personal important days or traditional festivals) as well as various Japanese dietetic signs. Interviewees who have ever visited Japan can comprehend the above traits, while all interviewees can pinpoint various dietetic signs, showing that the texts can trigger multiple dimensions of cognitive identification for readers of different backgrounds. (2) Attitude: The texts presenting dietetic culture in a warm and humorous way can be enjoyed by interviewees of different backgrounds. The storylines which have something in common with readers’ experience can cause emotional resonance. And, those who have never been to Japan are more likely to be influenced on their fondness to the themed foods by story presentations. (3) Behavior: After reading “Shinya Shokudo”, all interviewees are willing to taste personally the themed foods, exhibiting the same behavioral tendency. However, concerning whether to further look up various information related as well as to cook the foods in texts, there exist variations among interviewees, reflecting different culinary cultural capitals owned by interviewees.